Rarity, nothing else

How to Select a Diamond

At Peter Gilder Jewellery, we make engagement ring shopping a fun and exciting experience. We believe buying a ring should be enjoyable, not intimidating! Our goal is to educate you on what makes each diamond unique, so you can confidently decide on the perfect stone that fits your budget and style.

Understanding “the 4C’s”

The Earth has produced millions of diamonds, but the vast majority have microscopic internal imperfections, and only a very few are perfect.

It is this difference that we will explain in the simplest terms, and which will help you to understand why one diamond can cost many times more than another which looks very similar.

To help us to explain we have broken down these characteristics into 4 main areas. Each area is described by a word starting with the letter C and this is where the term the 4 C’s originates. Here’s your guide to understanding “the 4C’s”

Carat Weight

Carat weight is often confused with visual size, but it is actually a precise measurement of weight. One carat is equal to 0.20 grams and is subdivided into 100 "points," much like Rands are divided into Cents. For example, a 50-point diamond weighs exactly 0.50 carats. While carat weight is the most obvious factor in determining price, the value does not increase in a smooth line.

Because large rough diamonds are mined much less frequently than smaller ones, a single 1-carat diamond will cost significantly more than two 0.50-carat diamonds of the same quality. This is the essence of rarity.

However, remember that bigger isn't always better; a poor cut can make a heavy diamond look small and dull, while a lively cut can make a lighter stone look expansive. We help you find the perfect balance where weight meets visual impact.

Colour

When we speak of diamond colour, we are usually describing the absence of colour. The holy grail for a white diamond is a chemically pure, structurally perfect stone with no hue, which acts like a prism to disperse light into a rainbow.

We grade this on an alphabetical scale starting at D (colourless) and moving down the alphabet to Z as the stone exhibits faint yellowish or brownish tints. The closer a diamond is to D, the rarer and more valuable it becomes. To the untrained eye, the difference between a 'D' and a 'G' might be invisible when set in a ring, yet the price difference is substantial due to rarity.

The exception to this rule is "Fancy Coloured" diamonds. When a stone possesses a vivid, natural saturation of pink, blue, yellow, or green, it becomes a distinct asset class, often commanding prices rivaling the finest colourless stones.

Clarity

Clarity refers to the existence of internal characteristics called "inclusions" and external blemishes. Because diamonds are formed deep within the earth under extreme heat and pressure, virtually all of them contain unique "birthmarks." We determine clarity using 10x magnification.

A stone is considered "Flawless" (FL) only if a skilled grader cannot see any inclusions under this power. The scale moves from Flawless to VVS (Very Very Slightly Included), VS (Very Slightly Included), SI (Slightly Included), down to I (Included). As you move down the scale, inclusions become larger or more numerous, interfering with the passage of light.

Rarity drives value here: Flawless diamonds are exceptionally scarce. However, many inclusions in the VS or SI range are invisible to the naked eye, offering a wonderful balance of beauty and budget.

Cut

While nature dictates the first three Cs, the Cut is the only contribution of the human hand, and it is arguably the most critical for beauty. Do not confuse "Cut" with "Shape" (like Oval or Pear); Cut refers to the precise angles, proportions, and symmetry of the facets.

A well-cut diamond acts like a mirror system, gathering light from above and reflecting it internally before shooting it back out to your eye as Brilliance (white light), Fire (colourful flashes), and Scintillation (sparkle).

If a diamond is cut too deep or too shallow, light leaks out the bottom, leaving the stone looking dark or lifeless. Many cutters sacrifice cut quality to retain carat weight, resulting in a heavy but dull stone. We prioritize a superior cut above all else to ensure your diamond dances with light, regardless of its size or clarity grade.

Other Factors

Fluorescence

Although not one of the 4c’s, the industry has recently introduced the measurement of natural fluorescence which the stone exhibits when placed under ultra violet light, as a further method of determining the uniqueness of the diamond. More diamonds fluoresce than not.

The bottom line?

A 1 carat, D/Flawless, perfectly proportioned diamond with no fluorescence will cost somewhat more than a ½ carat, colour I/ VS1, badly cut stone, with high fluorescence. The trick is to find a balance between quality and price that you are happy with. We can help you with that!

The 5th C - Confidence

At Peter Gilder, there is a 5th C, and we believe this to be as important as the other 4. Confidence in the jeweller you are buying from, confidence in the advice you are given, and as important, confidence in the long term relationship with your jeweller once you have made your choice.

Let us assist by paying us a visit and let one of our diamond experts show you the Peter Gilder difference. It really is a lot of fun!!!

Frequently Asked Questions

Natural vs. Lab Grown

What is the fundamental difference between a Natural and a Lab-Grown diamond?

The primary difference lies in their origin and history. Natural diamonds are geological miracles formed deep within the Earth over millions of years, making every single stone rare and historically unique. Lab-grown diamonds are created in a controlled factory environment over a matter of weeks, replicating the chemical process but lacking the geological heritage.

Why does Peter Gilder Jewellery recommend Natural diamonds?

We prioritize rarity, uniqueness, and sustained value. Because lab-grown diamonds are mass-produced, they lack the inherent rarity that drives the value of a natural stone. A natural diamond is an emotional investment that holds its value over time, whereas the mass production of lab-grown stones creates an infinite supply, which can diminish their uniqueness and long-term worth.

Are Lab-Grown diamonds more environmentally friendly?

Not necessarily. While often marketed as the "green" option, the manufacturing process for lab-grown diamonds requires massive amounts of energy to replicate the high-pressure, high-temperature conditions of the Earth's mantle. Conversely, the natural diamond industry has made massive strides in ethical sourcing and sustainability, with many mining companies now prioritizing social and environmental welfare.

General Diamond FAQs

Does a higher Carat weight always mean a better diamond?

Not at all. A diamond’s value and beauty are a balance of all the 4 Cs. A massive diamond that is poorly cut or has significant discoloration (low Colour/Clarity grades) may be less valuable—and less beautiful—than a smaller, perfectly cut, colourless stone. We help you find the "sweet spot" where size meets sparkle within your budget.

Which of the 4 Cs has the biggest impact on sparkle?

The Cut. While Nature dictates the Colour, Clarity, and Carat, the Cut is determined by the hands of a master craftsman. The angles and proportions of the cut determine how light reflects internally and shoots back out to your eye. A well-cut diamond will sparkle intensely even if it has a slightly lower colour or clarity grade.

What is "Fluorescence" and is it a bad thing?

Fluorescence is simply a reaction some diamonds have to ultraviolet (UV) light. It is not a flaw; rather, it is a characteristic that can act as a "fingerprint" for your stone. In fact, more diamonds fluoresce than not! We view it as a further method of determining the uniqueness of your specific diamond.

I see "Fancy Coloured" diamonds mentioned. What are they?

While most diamond grading scales value the absence of colour (D-Z), "Fancy" diamonds are the exception. These are rare geological anomalies where the diamond exhibits a vivid yellow, pink, green, or blue hue. Because these occur so infrequently in nature, their rarity can drive their value as high, or sometimes higher, than a flawless colourless (D) stone.

How do I read a diamond certificate?

A certificate is essentially the "blueprint" of your stone, verifying its identity. It maps out the inclusions (Clarity), measures the precise angles (Cut), and confirms the weight and colour. However, a piece of paper can't show you how a diamond feels or looks on your hand. That’s why we encourage you to book an appointment to view the stones under magnification yourself!